Winters True Form | Jonas

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Winter has been late to the game this year, but Fashionably late is always excusable, especially in Winter Storm Jonas’ case! We’ve had a very consistent Fall and Winter of fun waves on the Outer Banks, but hadn’t had a pumping day of waves in a long time, until swell from Jonas showed up.

The first day was howling offshore and really peaky, making it hard to be in the spot, but incredibly rewarding if you were. Not to mention we even had some snow flurries for most of the afternoon session. Day 2 was out of control wind and swell wise, then Day 3 conditions went blue bird and sheet glass. The swell period was still too high with buoy readings 9-10ft @ 14-15seconds, so finding somewhere that wasn’t doubled up was a challenge. We lucked out, even though both sessions we should have ideally been out hours earlier, we managed to find some pretty good waves. Day 4 of the swell was great for leftovers, with fun little tubes and air sections.

THIS is what Winter on the Outer Banks is all about… I don’t know what’s been going on the last few years, but this is the kind of surf I grew up being accustomed to between November and April. Hopefully this El Nino winter keeps kicking us some conditions that continue to allow Hatteras Island to show it’s True Winter Form.

EDIT: Brett Barley


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“Joaq’easter” (/Wah-Kee-Ster/) – when a Nor’Easter and Hurricane Joaquin provide you with relentless rain, onshore winds, and no forecasted days of good surf in sight, yet surprisingly at the end of it all, the forecasts are wrong and the waves get really fun.
Prior to the 3 days of fun surf in this video, the entire East Coast was scoring except the Outer Banks. I was anxious because of that, and spent the days prior, driving overnight searching for a rare wave that didn’t break, and paddling out in awful conditions, and lots of current trying to make something happen that wasn’t. I exhausted myself before these 3 days even started. In hindsight I blew it because I was tired before the best part of the swell, but no one knew it was going to get any fun.

In these 3 days I surfed four 5hr long sessions, and a 2.5hrs session… The latter part of every session was spent in delirium, and even though I couldn’t surf anymore, I stayed out just hoping to get one more fun wave. I didn’t want to miss a moment of what we had, since it’d been forever since we had had anything as fun. I went so far as to push myself, paddling as hard as I possibly could against the current before dark the first evening, to the point where I almost threw up from hunger/lack of strength, all because I wanted to get one more barrel before dark.

I’m so thankful the OBX got some relief from the miserable weather and conditions… This is the Cape Hatteras surf I grew up loving, and I hope to see more of this more often in the future.

I’m also thankful I had my SOLOSHOT2 on hand, because there wasn’t a forecast model that showed good conditions, and we scored with hardly anyone around. Without Soloshot, I wouldn’t have any documentation of these few fun days. See how You Can Film Yourself Automatically at

Reflection of FIVE

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As a fun way to get excited for the upcoming Hurricane Season (come on, most good storms happen between late August and October), I’ve compiled clips from the last 5years of Hurricanes and Tropical Storms.

Now… I missed a couple good ones, and didn’t have anyone filming on one or two others, so this isn’t a detailed breakdown, but should serve as a reminder that there is plenty of swell action to come. All of the storms in this clip happened in September or October.

So, East Coasters, rest easy knowing that it’s only going to get better from here on out. Summer is ending, and the Tropics are heating up. Here’s to hoping for plenty of storm surf without any systems making landfall and causing destruction.

Silver and Gold

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Fall and Winter are the best times of year along the Outer Banks… From overcast windy days to slick calm golden lit evenings, you can’t beat it!

It’s now very much Summer on the East Coast, and we can pretty much kiss tubes this Long, Square, and Golden goodbye. So here’s a salute to the times past, of empty beaches and brown water cylinders, and a hope for more to come again sometime in a few months.

Shot using a GoPro Hero4 Black coupled with a MyGoMount mouth mount.

Post. Meridian.

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I set up my Soloshot 2 on the beach, changed into my 5/4mm Wetsuit, 7mm Boots, & 5mm Gloves, and paddled out for a 5hr session till dark. Though not very big, it was perfect. For 5hrs I paddled, surfed, ran up the beach, and repeated, over and over again… Until i was the last guy in the water, and the last car out of the parking lot. Nothing beats that feeling.

If you want to be able to film yourself, and capture and remember sessions or experiences like this, check out for more info.  Or email me at with any questions.


Hurricane Gonzalo slowly rolled offshore of the East Coast back in mid October… Cape Hatteras was graced with 3 days of offshore winds, and really fun sized surf. Soloshot2 was there to capture every minute of the swell too!

If you like groomed righthand tubes, and punk rock… Click Play and Enjoy.

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Storm Chasers

Back in September, Cory Lopez and Torrey Meister came along with O’neill and SurfER magazine, to chase a Hurricane Swell to my house.  The storm didn’t pan out so much, but then a Low Pressure formed up, giving us plenty of fun onshore days followed by a day off solid offshore tubes.  Watch the video recapping our “Nexen Road Trip”, then View the entire photo gallery in the link below at

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Bits and Bytes

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I’ve been sitting on some of this footage since March… Not because it’s amazing, but because none of it really went together. I kept waiting to get more that would fit with it, and piece some together for a Spring edit, and some for just a Soloshot edit, and etc… Then the waves got bad and that never happened. Then Summer passed, and Fall is flying by…

So, I decided to quit waiting and just throw it all together, so I could start fresh. I already have stuff ready to go from this Fall, but I’m going to put it aside a little while, as I send these clips into cyberspace to float around for a bit before sinking.  So, I present Bits and Bytes (cause that’s all it was doing before, was taking up data on my harddrive).


Footage Courtesy:
PJ Terranova
Jeffrey O’neil
Bryant Thomas

Arctic Swell

In March I had the pleasure of traveling to Norway in search of waves with photographer Chris Burkard, as well as surfers Pat Millin & Chadd Konig.  Anton Lorimer and Michael Bonocore from were along side us to document Burkard and his approach to capturing the incredible images he does in the Arctic.

Below is the short film, that I feel really gives you an idea of what it’s like surfing in these distant places.  Click play and take a trip to the Arctic Circle…

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It’s the FINAL DAY to VOTE for the Smith Grudge Match… Team Mid-Atlantic is trailing 160 votes, and we only have until MIDNIGHT to get ahead!

So if you haven’t voted yet, or know friends who haven’t, please follow the link below and VOTE on slide #5 of the feature. (theres an ad at the begginning, so just wait for that to finish)

Then spread the word! 12hrs left… THANKS!

Screen shot 2014-06-12 at 1.04.40 PM

Smith Grudge Match SEMI-FINALS

Fisher and I need your help…  The Smith Optics Grudge Match heats are based on popular vote.  So the teams with the most votes, will be advancing to the Finals.  WE HAVE SAVED OUR BEST CLIPS FOR LAST… Our best clips are what landed us as the #2 seed in the event in the first place.

But we are currently 350 votes behind!  So, if you are wanting to see the #1 and #2 seeds go head to head in the Final, click on the link above and cast your vote for the MID-ATLANTIC on slide 8 of The Smith Grudge Match feature.  (the NorthEast is smoking NorCal, so no need to worry about them.  They’ll be in the Final)

Thanks for your support!  VOTING ENDS AT 4PM EST, MONDAY JUNE 2…  Hopefully I’ll be thanking everyone again soon, for letting us showcase our best footage in the Final against the NorthEast, come Monday night. midatl_vote-1

Ambient Ocean

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Morning surfs here are awesome… Or anywhere for that matter. Waking up at dark, heading to the beach early, and seeing green water barrels right off the sand is the best feeling in surfing ever. Super glassy morning with just a few friends, followed by an afternoon of much the same…

Here’s another installment of what surfing along Cape Hatteras is all about.

Wind Driven

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When the storms come from the SouthWest, and the Winds howl for hours on end, and the rain pours down nonstop, we are greeted afterwards with reeling Righthand barrels. Take a look inside the belly of a Southswell on Cape Hatteras, and see what a typical day full of barrels is like around here.

From the moody morning session to the beautiful evening session… this is what living here is all about.  I tried to make this edit tell a story a little bit.  And hopefully it comes across that way…  Now click PLAY (if you haven’t already) and enjoy.

Soloshot2 Coming Soon

You are definitely going to want to go ahead and put this thing on your wish list!  SOLOSHOT2 is currently ready for Pre-Order at $399, which is a $100 discount compared to when it will be on shelves.  The Pre-Order discount is only good until Jan. 31, so get to clicking, so you can have one of these bad boys in your hands, come March 2014…

Head over to to order yours now…

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New features include real vertical tracking, a camera controller accessory dock for automatic zoom tracking and start/stop recording, a smaller lighter transmitter, compatibility with 3rd party professional tripods and the ability to network multiple SOLOSHOT2 transmitters and bases together.


If you don’t know who Jesus is… or What it means to have a relationship with God and his Son… then I hope this movie can help you understand.

God loves us… He loves YOU…  And I know sometimes that seems odd, since we are nothing and he is everything, why would he love us?  But i’ll ask you this, if any loving father on earth will take care of his children with love and ask for nothing in return, but love, how much more will God take care of us?  It’s the same type relationship, but on a greater scale.  You don’t always understand how much your parents love you, or why they do the things they do to bless you, and that’s exactly why it is even harder to grasp Gods love for us.  His love is much greater, enough to sacrifice His son Jesus so that we could have union with Him, a union that had been separated by sin… All he wants of us in return, is to Love him back, with all our heart, and thanks be to Jesus, We can.

So on this Christmas day, I ask you to look deep into your hearts…  And if God isn’t an important part of your life already, think about that purpose in life you’ve been searching for.  If you haven’t figured it out, it’s because our main purpose on this earth is to Love our God, and you won’t find answers anywhere else.  That’s why people get lost looking for their purpose in life, because it isn’t of this world, you aren’t going to find it here, but in yourself.  So open up your heart… because Jesus is right there waiting for you to give it to Him.  And he will bless you eternally in return…. It doesn’t get any better than that.

Birthday Fishing

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I decided to spend my Birthday hunting down some Puppy Drum on light tackle in the surf. I checked out a few spots, but nothing was looking too promising, until I made it out to Cape Point. Once there, I decided to make a few casts and was hooked up in no time. Caught a couple, then went home to grab my wife and son, and my GoPro so I could document the afternoon.

They were so dang Thick, it was ridiculous. Multiple double headers between my cousin, friends, and I; as well as a few triple headers, and one time 5 of us were bowed up at once! It was the most fun afternoon beach fishing I’ve ever had. My cousin and I stayed until it was pitch black, along with some friends and other fellow anglers, just pulling pups in left and right. A few times, you couldn’t even get the slack out of your line, after casting, before you were hooked up!

Glad I had decided to go get my GoPro, because it was an afternoon to remember. And the sunset to cap off my birthday, fishing with my friends and family, was just icing on the cake.
I’m using a Diawa 2500 reel, 6’6″ Shimano rod, and 8lb mono… Makes fighting some 21”-24” Red Drum really fun.